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EQUIPMENT LIST
1 Pair Gloves & Safety Glasses
Carpenter’s chalk line
Stakes
Spade
Stone cutter or masonry saw
Plate compactor
8-10', straight 2"x4" yellow pine
(2) 8' lengths of 1 1/2" O.D. PVC pipe
Nylon mason string
Tape measure
Broom
Line Level
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Modified Herringbone Pattern |
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 STEP 1-PREPARATION
- Sketch a diagram of the area to be paved.
- Square, rectangular, circular and free-forming projects are all possible.
- To guide pavingstone lines, it is best to square off a 90° corner. If there is not an existing structure to measure off of, use a "3-4-5 triangle" method. Begin by measuring 3' along a straight reference. Measure 4' from one end of the 3' line, drive a stake where 4' and 5' marks meet. The angle opposite the 5' side will be 90°. Once this corner is done extend the other sides using additional "3-4-5 triangles".
- Set stakes, for outside perimeters, 6" away from area to be paved.
- Set string lines to establish finished patio height and slope.
- Level the strings around the project using a string line level.
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Adjust sides for water
runoff by marking stakes below string line to allow
for
a 1" drop every 8'. Re-adjust the string lines to follow
slope marks. The string line represents the surface of the
completed job.
STEP 2-EXCAVATION
- Skim last 1/2" off with spade to leave soil undisturbed.
- Use
chart to determine depth and gravel/sand requirements:
STEP 3-BASE
- Fill in the excavated area with the quarry process gravel,
flattening, compacting and sloping. Use the 2x4 and cross string lines
as a guide to assure a perfect base installation. Proper compaction
and a smooth pitched surface base is vital.
STEP 4-EDGING
- Install a
curb or edge restraint to prevent spreading of the pavers.
- To determine
where you want to install your edge restraint, lay a row of pavers
with manufactured edgers, when available, from one side
of
the area to be paved to the other. Position your curb so that you
maximize the use of whole pavers and minimize the number of stones
you need to
cut. Measure this distance and transfer the measurements to the curb
area. Position your Pave Edge restraint and nail it into the aggregate
base.
STEP 5-PLACING (SCREEDING) YOUR SAND
- Add the coarse sand and smooth
it out (do not compact) using the PVC pipes as
1 1/2" guides
or rails and the 2x4 board. Do approximately 8' sections and be sure
to
lay pavers before preparing the next section of sand. Use a trowel
to fill in the gaps left behind by the pipes after you remove them.
Do not
walk on or disturb the freshly placed sand.
STEP 6-LAYING THE PAVERS
- Lay the pavers on top of the smooth sand, beginning at the right
angle. There are many pattern possibilities with Cambridge... ask for
our DesignScaping
pattern sheets.
- Each Cambridge paver is manufactured with a spacer bar
to assure constant joint widths, this allows the sand to fill the joints.
- Just
hold a paver so the bottom 1/4" to 1/2" clicks against
the top edge of the paver already in the sand. Release your grasp dropping
the paver directly downward.
- Use additional string lines to insure straight
paver joints.
- Check that the rows of pavers are straight every 3' by
running a string line along the front of the rows - making sure
each paver touches
the
string.
- Always install pavers working off multiple cubes, if project
allows. Remove paver from the cubes by bands vertically.
STEP 7-CUTTING
- Once
you have laid all the pavers that will fit your area, you
may need to cut some to fit.
- Use your stone cutter for simple cross cuts
or a power driven masonry saw for angled cuts.
STEP 8-COMPACTING THE
PAVERS
- Using
the plate
compactor, make two passes over the installed pavers.
This will seat the pavers,
forcing sand up between the joint and completing the
interlocking effect of the Cambridge Pavingstone System.
STEP 9-FINAL
SWEEPING AND COMPACTION
- Sweep more sand over the surface until all
joints are filled to the bottom of the chamfered edge.
- Compact again.
- Repeat process until joints are filled.
